Sloping Beach(斜坡海滩)研究综述
Sloping Beach 斜坡海滩 - A fully-coupled (hydrodynamic and morphologic) numerical model based on the open-source computational fluid dynamics (CFD) package OpenFOAM is presented and utilized to simulate flow and morphology induced by a solitary wave on a sloping beach. [1] - Wave Breaking over Sloping Beaches Using a Coupled Boundary Integral-Level Set Method. [2] However, this can be dealt by highlighting its advantages such as white sand, sloping beaches, and the absence of dangerous biota. [3] The accuracy and robustness of three selected schemes is assessed by means of convergence tests, three idealized 1D test problems with exact solutions and a 1D laboratory experiment of the breaking, runup and rundown of a solitary wave on a sloping beach. [4] A series of numerical experiments was designed comprehensively and performed then to obtain a new formulation for the envelope of the spatial distribution of the maximum momentum flux within the solitary wave run-up zone over back-reef beaches, which is different from the one used over uniformly-sloping beaches. [5] Compared with the situation on a gently-sloping beach, the extraordinary wave breaking induced by abrupt depth reduction over a steep fore-reef slope makes the wave height distribution on the reef flat to differ substantially. [6] This provides the foundation for a subsequent discussion about tsunami wave propagation and runup on a sloping beach, and in particular the role of wave dispersion for this problem. [7] The combined effect of various parameters such as position of the dike and shape and size of the dike has been studied, for sloping beaches. [8] To improve our current understanding of tsunami-like solitary waves interacting with a row of vertical slotted piles on a sloping beach, a 3D numerical wave tank based on the CFD tool OpenFOAM® was developed in this study. [9] I present an exact and explicit solution to the nonlinear governing equations in the equatorial f-plane, describing geophysical edge waves propagating over a plane-sloping beach, in the presence of underlying uniform currents. [10] Furthermore, the model and method was applied to the simulation of long wave propagation on a sloping beach. [11] A monochromatic, small amplitude, normally incident standing wave on a sloping beach is unstable to perturbation by subharmonic (half the frequency) edge waves. [12]提出了一种基于开源计算流体动力学 (CFD) 软件包 OpenFOAM 的全耦合（流体动力学和形态）数值模型，并用于模拟由倾斜海滩上的孤立波引起的流动和形态。 [1] - 使用耦合边界积分水平集方法在倾斜海滩上破浪。 [2] 然而，这可以通过突出其优势来解决，例如白色的沙滩、倾斜的海滩和没有危险的生物群。 [3] 三个选定方案的准确性和稳健性通过收敛测试、三个具有精确解的理想化一维测试问题和一个倾斜海滩上孤立波的破裂、上升和下降的一维实验室实验来评估。 [4] 综合设计并进行了一系列数值实验，得到了一种新的礁后滩孤波助推区最大动量通量空间分布包络公式。均匀倾斜的海滩。 [5] 与缓坡滩的情况相比，陡峭的前礁坡深度突然减小所引起的异常破浪使得礁滩上的波高分布存在较大差异。 [6] 这为后续讨论海啸波在倾斜海滩上的传播和上升提供了基础，特别是波分散在这个问题中的作用。 [7] 研究了堤坝位置、堤坝形状和大小等各种参数对倾斜海滩的综合影响。 [8] 为了提高我们目前对类似海啸的孤立波浪与倾斜海滩上的一排垂直开槽桩相互作用的理解，本研究开发了一个基于 CFD 工具 OpenFOAM® 的 3D 数值波浪池。 [9] 我提出了赤道 f 平面中非线性控制方程的精确和显式解，描述了在存在潜在均匀电流的情况下在平面倾斜海滩上传播的地球物理边缘波。 [10] 此外，该模型和方法还应用于长波在倾斜海滩上的传播模拟。 [11] 倾斜海滩上的单色、小幅度、正常入射驻波对于次谐波（频率的一半）边缘波的扰动是不稳定的。 [12]
breaking solitary wave
An experimental investigation is performed to elucidate the variations of accelerations and pressure gradients in the external stream of retreating flow during the run-down phase of a non-breaking solitary wave, propagating over a 1:3 sloping beach. [1] Two physical experiments are used to validate the model: breaking solitary wave on a sloping beach (Sumer et al. [2] The system obtained is applied to study non-stationary undular bores produced after interaction of a uniform flow with an immobile wall, non-hydrostatic shear flows over a local obstacle and the evolution of breaking solitary wave on a sloping beach. [3] The temporal and spatial variations of the void fraction under a breaking solitary wave on a 1:20 sloping beach was investigated through laboratory measurement. [4]进行了一项实验研究，以阐明在 1:3 倾斜的海滩上传播的非破坏孤立波的下降阶段，后退流外部流中的加速度和压力梯度的变化。 [1] 两个物理实验用于验证模型：在倾斜的海滩上打破孤立的波浪 (Sumer et al. [2] nan [3] 通过实验室测量研究了1:20坡度海滩上单浪破碎作用下孔隙率的时空变化。 [4]
Mildly Sloping Beach 缓坡海滩
The dispersive characteristics of unidirectional irregular waves propagating and breaking over a mildly sloping beach are examined using a highly-resolved laboratory dataset. [1] Previous studies have shown that the models developed using Boussinesq equations with improved nonlinearity and frequency dispersion are capable of simulating wave evolution over mildly sloping beaches at shallow/intermediate water depths but with little emphasis on changes to bottom configurations. [2] Comparisons with experimental measurements are presented for the propagation of a breaking dispersive shock wave following a dam break, and then incident regular waves breaking on a mildly sloping beach and over a submerged bar. [3]使用高分辨率实验室数据集检查了在缓坡海滩上传播和破坏的单向不规则波浪的色散特性。 [1] 先前的研究表明，使用具有改进的非线性和频率色散的 Boussinesq 方程开发的模型能够模拟浅/中水深的缓坡海滩上的波浪演化，但很少强调底部配置的变化。 [2] nan [3]
20 Sloping Beach
The hydrodynamic characteristics, including local and convective accelerations as well as pressure gradient in the horizontal direction, of the external stream of an undular bore propagating on a 1:20 sloping beach are experimentally studied. [1] The temporal and spatial variations of the void fraction under a breaking solitary wave on a 1:20 sloping beach was investigated through laboratory measurement. [2]实验研究了在1:20坡度海滩上传播的波状孔外流的水动力特性，包括局部和对流加速度以及水平方向的压力梯度。 [1] 通过实验室测量研究了1:20坡度海滩上单浪破碎作用下孔隙率的时空变化。 [2]
Gently Sloping Beach 缓坡海滩
If these are of sufficient amplitude, the nearby attendees will quickly become stranded in the intertidal of a gently sloping beach as the water level falls. [1] These quantities can be used to describe the shoaling of cnoidal waves approaching a gently sloping beach. [2]如果这些幅度足够大，随着水位下降，附近的参与者将很快被困在缓坡海滩的潮间带中。 [1] 这些量可以用来描述接近缓坡海滩的海浪的浅滩。 [2]