Introduction to Sloping Beach - Breaking Solitary Wave

What is/are Sloping Beach?

Sloping Beach - A fully-coupled (hydrodynamic and morphologic) numerical model based on the open-source computational fluid dynamics (CFD) package OpenFOAM is presented and utilized to simulate flow and morphology induced by a solitary wave on a sloping beach. ^[1] - Wave Breaking over Sloping Beaches Using a Coupled Boundary Integral-Level Set Method. ^[2] However, this can be dealt by highlighting its advantages such as white sand, sloping beaches, and the absence of dangerous biota. ^[3] The accuracy and robustness of three selected schemes is assessed by means of convergence tests, three idealized 1D test problems with exact solutions and a 1D laboratory experiment of the breaking, runup and rundown of a solitary wave on a sloping beach. ^[4] This study employed a coupled water-air two-phase flow and saltwater transport model to analyze the behaviors of generated airflow in unsaturated zones and the fluctuations of salinity at the salt-freshwater interface in a two-layered unconfined aquifer with a sloping beach surface subjected to tidal oscillations. ^[5] A series of numerical experiments was designed comprehensively and performed then to obtain a new formulation for the envelope of the spatial distribution of the maximum momentum flux within the solitary wave run-up zone over back-reef beaches, which is different from the one used over uniformly-sloping beaches. ^[6] Compared with the situation on a gently-sloping beach, the extraordinary wave breaking induced by abrupt depth reduction over a steep fore-reef slope makes the wave height distribution on the reef flat to differ substantially. ^[7] This provides the foundation for a subsequent discussion about tsunami wave propagation and runup on a sloping beach, and in particular the role of wave dispersion for this problem. ^[8] The combined effect of various parameters such as position of the dike and shape and size of the dike has been studied, for sloping beaches. ^[9] To improve our current understanding of tsunami-like solitary waves interacting with a row of vertical slotted piles on a sloping beach, a 3D numerical wave tank based on the CFD tool OpenFOAM® was developed in this study. ^[10] I present an exact and explicit solution to the nonlinear governing equations in the equatorial f-plane, describing geophysical edge waves propagating over a plane-sloping beach, in the presence of underlying uniform currents. ^[11] Furthermore, the model and method was applied to the simulation of long wave propagation on a sloping beach. ^[12] A monochromatic, small amplitude, normally incident standing wave on a sloping beach is unstable to perturbation by subharmonic (half the frequency) edge waves. ^[13]

breaking solitary wave

An experimental investigation is performed to elucidate the variations of accelerations and pressure gradients in the external stream of retreating flow during the run-down phase of a non-breaking solitary wave, propagating over a 1:3 sloping beach. ^[1] Two physical experiments are used to validate the model: breaking solitary wave on a sloping beach (Sumer et al. ^[2] The system obtained is applied to study non-stationary undular bores produced after interaction of a uniform flow with an immobile wall, non-hydrostatic shear flows over a local obstacle and the evolution of breaking solitary wave on a sloping beach. ^[3] The temporal and spatial variations of the void fraction under a breaking solitary wave on a 1:20 sloping beach was investigated through laboratory measurement. ^[4]

Mildly Sloping Beach

The dispersive characteristics of unidirectional irregular waves propagating and breaking over a mildly sloping beach are examined using a highly-resolved laboratory dataset. ^[1] Previous studies have shown that the models developed using Boussinesq equations with improved nonlinearity and frequency dispersion are capable of simulating wave evolution over mildly sloping beaches at shallow/intermediate water depths but with little emphasis on changes to bottom configurations. ^[2] Comparisons with experimental measurements are presented for the propagation of a breaking dispersive shock wave following a dam break, and then incident regular waves breaking on a mildly sloping beach and over a submerged bar. ^[3]

20 Sloping Beach

The hydrodynamic characteristics, including local and convective accelerations as well as pressure gradient in the horizontal direction, of the external stream of an undular bore propagating on a 1:20 sloping beach are experimentally studied. ^[1] The temporal and spatial variations of the void fraction under a breaking solitary wave on a 1:20 sloping beach was investigated through laboratory measurement. ^[2]

Gently Sloping Beach

If these are of sufficient amplitude, the nearby attendees will quickly become stranded in the intertidal of a gently sloping beach as the water level falls. ^[1] These quantities can be used to describe the shoaling of cnoidal waves approaching a gently sloping beach. ^[2]