Introduction to Plane Beach

Predicted spatial distributions of maximum surface elevations from the validation cases also show that compared with the plane beach without fringing reefs, bore propagation processes induced by the wave breaking over reef bathymetry are important in decay of solitary wave and consequent runup height.

Numerical simulations and laboratory measurements are presented of multi-directional focused wave groups interacting with a plane beach.

The vertical profile of longshore currents is well described by the power-type formula with a = 1/10 for a plane beach.

The weakly-compressible SPH code DualSPHysics was applied to simulate wave breaking over two distinct bathymetric profiles (a plane beach and fringing reef) and compared to experimental flume measurements of waves, flows, and mean water levels.

Moreover, the numerical model is tested for simulating regular wave breaking on a plane beach of Ting and Kirby (Coast.

—The nonlinear problem of run-up of a long wave on a plane beach in presence of a tide is solved within nonlinear shallow water theory using the Carrier–Greenspan approach.

This study examines the effects of Stokes drift on pollutant transport within the surf zone on a plane beach both numerically and experimentally.

Here we study the nonlinear deformation and run-up of long single waves of positive polarity in the conjoined water basin, which consists of the constant depth section and a plane beach.

Here we study the nonlinear deformation and run-up of long single waves of positive polarity in the conjoined water basin, which consists of the constant depth section and a plane beach.

We analytically solve the nonlinear shallow water theory for the tsunami run-up on a plane beach in the presence of tide and show that over a plane beach the tide in the nearshore zone can be considered static (uniform in space and frozen in time).

The results present not only that a low-frequency waves are enhanced by shoaling and breaking processes due to the bi-linear slope beach compare to the analytical solution on plane beach but that the series of wave run-ups are dominant by the low-frequency wave induced by the transient-focused wave groups.